On the Bench: Amethyst Veil (Retro Blog)

Heavy Metal

Before I roll into the next step of the project, I wanted to mention a change I made to the project plan. It’s not a major change, but it was one that I thought I should make so I can be ready to play at least in part come May. The change was to swap the cairn wraiths with the second unit of skeletons in the plan. With the change, I now anticipate that I will have a fully painted warband ready in time for the next season of the league.

The revised project plan
Skeletons (10) w/ full command [CCC]
Lich
Cairn Wraiths (4)
Skeletons (10) w/ full command
Wight King
Grave Guard (10) w/ full command
Vespero’s Vendetta (5)


Something to Ponder: As I write today’s post and think about the changes I am making to the project plan, I came to wonder what would be the use of a vampire with the ethereal power. There are only two units that he can join, ghosts (you know what I mean *wink*) and cairn wraiths, and unless the vampire is a lord, it will not have any additional vampire powers. I thought maybe a lord with the power plus the additional magic levels and one of the summoning powers (hint: skeletons) parked in a unit of cairn wraith to protect it, but that seems like a waste. So has anyone come up with a good use for the power?

For today’s painting, I assault the metal portions of the model. You may have caught in yesterday’s picture a preview of the color scheme, so I’ll recap it here and just talk about my challenges and reasons for using it.

Chaos Black (4:1 chaos black: thinner)
Chaos Black: Black Grey (3:3:2 chaos black: black grey: thinner)
Black Grey (4:1 black grey: thinner)
Black Grey: London Grey (3:3:2 black grey: london grey: thinner)
London Grey (4:1 london grey: thinner, 00 size brush)
London Grey: Light Grey (3:3:2 london grey: light grey: thinner)
Light Grey (4:1 light grey: thinner)
Light Grey: Skull White (2:2:1 light grey: skull white: thinner)

There are a few reasons for using the color scheme above to represent steel metallics. The first reason is I like the ‘cartoon’ look on my WFB models. If I were to compare this with video games, I would say I like the look of Super Smash Brothers Brawl over the look of Gears of War (Just talking artistic vision and not gameplay or story). Second, I don’t want to have to deal with the drawbacks of working with metallics. Don’t get me wrong, I like the look of them, as I have used them extensively with certain 40K armies, but you need to be careful with which brushes you use and need to make sure you really clean your painting supplies before switching from metallics to non-metallics, otherwise you may get the glitter effect.





Next Time: Beating my drum.

On the Bench: Amethyst Veil (Retro Blog)

It’s the Clothes that Make the Skeleton

Sometimes you realize your mistakes only after you can’t correct them. In this cause I decided to break with doing the models in parts and assemble a few complete skeletons so I could get a better feel for the models. This may sound weird, but I purchased the new skeletons from a dealer on Ebay that ships the sprues without the box. Since I don’t pick-up WD, I didn’t have many images of how the models look once completely assembled. That said, I put together a real basic skeleton with a spear, which I really liked. This prompted me to assemble another with armor, a big helmet, and a large pointy sword. For those following along, that is where I made the mistake. Only after letting the plastic glue dry, GW brand by the way, I realized that there were places on the model that may be quite difficult to reach with a paint brush that is not curved in the shape of a ‘S’ and about a size 36/0.




Moving back to actual painting, with the bone completed, I decided it was time to tackle the clothes. All of my WFB armies have the color purple as one of their base colors. The reason for this is I like the color and it allows me to swap units using the DoW rules. That said, I wanted to work out a faster paint scheme than the one I have used in the past, since that scheme used mixing hexed purple and white and gradual layers. To reach this goal, I decided to use a Vallejo color called violet blue. It seems like a good fit into the scheme and looks like to would cut out a couple layers.

I begin the purple with a base coat of royal purple (4:1 royal purple: thinner) using a size 0 brush. I allow the first coat to dry before applying another coat. Once the second coat is applied, I begin to mix and apply a coat of royal purple/hexed lichen (3:3:2 royal purple: hexed lichen: thinner). I apply two coats of this color in thin, but rapid succession, thus giving an overall even coat. Next, I apply two coats of hexed lichen (4:1 hexed lichen: thinner, 00 size brush) in the same manner but leaving more of the last layer showing in the deepest crevices.

At this point, I take a break and let the paint dry for an hour. When I return, I begin to highlight using a mix of hexed purple and blue violet (2:2:1 hexed purple: blue violet: thinner). I apply two coats, the second one covering less area and being applied with a lighter touch. Next, I apply a layer of highlight using just blue violet (3:1 blue violet: thinner, 10/0 size brush). Last, I apply a layer of blue violet/skull white mix (3:3:2 blue violet: skull white: thinner, 10/0 size brush) for the final highlights.





Next Time: Working the forge.

Imperial Guard Project

As I have mentioned in the past, my friend Ernie and I are working on a joint Imperial Guard project. The idea is to build off of each other and work towards having a unified force for potential team tournaments in the distant future. Up to this point, we have been diving into the codex and developing ideas for our theme. At this point, I don’t want to reveal that theme, but I do feel like sharing potential units that may be included in my portion of the project. What I can say is my portion does not make a “typical” army as the flaws in the army are very intentional and clear. (Note to my readers: feel free to discuss these flaws in the comments section, as I am eager to babble about this project.)

The first unit I am looking at building is a veteran squad using Gunnery Sergeant Harker. The squad will be based on cadian models, so Gunnery Sergeant Harker will be a “count as” cadian version of the character/model. I visualize this unit to be the guys that sit outside the city’s gate and are ready to keep anyone from leaving through those gates.

Veteran Squad w/ Gunnery Sergeant Harker, 3 Sniper Rifles, 1 Heavy Bolter and the Forward Sentries Doctrine (180 pts)

When it came to designing the army, this was actually the first unit I wanted to build. The reason they are going to be the second unit (at this time) is that this unit will be the first unit that has a transport. Unlike the first unit, this one already has a name, “The Matchstick Boys”. As the name implies, this unit is all about burning stuff. The intention of this unit is to be my version of an urban cleansing squad. The Matchstick Boys are the crew sent into a city to clean up the rough parts.

Veteran Squad w/ 1 Heavy Flamer, 2 Flamers, and 1 Chimera w/ Turret/Hull Flamers (155 pts)

The next unit has already been revealed, but with the codex in hand, I can define what the “Nut Crackers” are going to look like on the board. I just love the idea of these guys, a group of cranky ogryns that have one goal, crack open anything they are ordered to crack open. Old Balls is the Bonehead of the crew, a veteran ogryn with an attitude like your momma! Sloppy Joe was a bodyguard for a low ranking commissar until he accidently killed him. Moo and Oink are new blood to the crew. Their nicknames coming from the sounds they make when sleeping. As a side note, I really wish these guys could have a commissar as a unit purchase. I had some fun ideas, but don’t want to burn the HQ slot on a commissar lord.

Ogryns (4 models) w/ Chimera w/ Turret/Hull Heavy Bolters (225 pts)

After this point in the project, I should have enough practice painting tanks that I will be comfortable painting a couple of Forgeworld models. This unit is currently nicknamed as the “Exterminators”, but I think I will search for something more original. The idea is that machinery and equipment is more important than human life, so Bane Wolves are used for extreme crowd control. I’ll be using the forgeworld Graia Pattern Hellhounds, as I like them the best of the currently available options.

Bane Wolves (2 Tanks) w/ Smoke Launchers (270 pts)

Every army must have a commander, and this one is no exception. The problem is whether or not I want to roll with a themed command squad or go with a commissar lord that is basically acting like a warden. To this end, I have decided for now that I will focus on a commissar lord, as I have one more unit at this point that I want to add to the army. I don’t know the back story on this guy, but he feels right at the moment. Maybe he will become the commissar that joins the Nut Crackers.

Lord Commissar w/ power weapon (80 pts)

The last unit is a bit odd, but again, it goes with the theme I am developing for this army. I am going with a cheesy name, but one that fits the model. “The Mechanic” will be a techpriest enginseer accompanied by some servitors. I will be using arco models instead of the servitor models, as I dislike the current servitor models.

Techpriest Enginseer w/ 3 servitors (90 pts)

Once the base 1000 points is finished, I will look at expanding the army further. In my next article, I will look at potential units that may make the army when I am ready to expand it to a solo army for 1500 point games.

On the Bench: Amethyst Veil (Retro Blog)

Look Daddy, I Can Do It.

One Fish, Two Fish…
Red Fish, Dead Fish…

This project has started at a nice pace, and the first test of the bone scheme I am going to use has been successful. The next phase in the project, and completing the unit, is to complete one model with the complete color scheme to make sure it works for me. A lot of the actual palette for each color has already been decided as I want this army to blend with my other two, but I wasn’t sure as I began that the bone scheme would match-up well.

To begin this piece of the project, I needed to select a complete model. I decided to go with the musician from the Cursed Company as I could strip him if the paint job wasn’t what I was wanting. It was also a good test model for me as the model is packed tight so portions of it would be difficult to paint, thus completing it would feel like a reward to me.

Before I can prime the model, I needed to base it. For this project I have decided to use George Bases instead of the ones provided by GW. I like George Bases because they come in the same sizes as GW ones, are wood, thus heavier, and aren’t angled down the sides like GW bases, thus creating a more uniformed look when models are ranked up. The bad thing about George Bases, there is only one store I know of that carries them, Games Plus in Mount Prospect, IL.

I apply the model to the base using Elmer’s Super Glue (Gel). I like using this particular glue for a couple of reasons. One, it’s not runny, so I don’t normally glue myself to the model, though it does happen. (Actually it happens as often as me stabbing myself while cleaning models, and that happens more often than I care to admit.) Two, if I make a mistake, acetone removes the glue pretty easily.

Once the glue was dry, I proceeded to coat the base in Elmer’s glue, the white stuff, using a garbage brush to spread it evenly across the surface. Next, I dipped the model in a bowl of fine sand. Since dipping the sand causes the glue to shift and stick some of the sand to the sides of the base, I use another base to clean and makes sure no sand is hanging over the edges. With that done, I set the model aside to dry and work on cleaning more skeleton parts till the timer goes off.

The next day, I take the model out to the garage and give it a few light coats of white primer. I then let it sit for the remainder of the day and focus on other non-hobby activities.

Moving on to the next day, I start the model by painting the base. I first cover the base with a thinned coat of charred brown (4:2 charred brown: thinner). I then wait a few minutes, using the time to clean another spear, and proceed to give the base another coat. Once the second coat is applied, I let the model sit again till it dries. Once dry, I next drybrush a coat of dark flesh (4:1 dark flesh: thinner). This was followed by two layers of bestial brown (4:1 bestial brown: thinner) drybrushed and than a few layers of bleached bone (4:1 bleached bone: thinner) drybrushed. At that point, the bell rung and the round was over.

With the base painted, I proceed to paint the bone portions of the model using the color scheme I decided on.

Bone Color Scheme
4:1 desert yellow: thinner, 0 size brush
3:1:4 brown ink: black ink: thinner, 00 size brush
4:1 desert yellow: thinner, 00 size brush
2:2:1 desert yellow: bleached bone: thinner, 10/0 size brush
4:1 bleached bone: thinner, 10/0 size brush
2:2:1 bleached bone: skull white: thinner, 18/0 size brush





Next Time: Picking out something for my skeleton to wear.

Weekly Update: Amethyst Veil

Yet more skeletons to the regiment. The newest ones were modeled to be without weapons or shields. The intention with doing this is to use them as raised skeleton for any skeleton units in the army. (It also makes painting them easier.)